As
Maine Goes, It’s Going Well
By Maralyn D. Hill
& Norman E. Hill, 'The Tandem Travelers'
There’s an ancient political saying, “As Maine goes, so goes the
nation.” Today, an updated version of that saying might be, “As Maine
small business entrepreneurs go, work together, and grow, so goes the
Maine tourist industry.”
Our International Food Wine & Travel Writers (IFWTWA) group spent 6 days
in Rockland, with the last three days on a classic schooner, Stephen
Taber. Thanks to the hospitality and generosity of local businesses and
Historic Inns of Rockland, we saw in great depth the variety of sites
and culinary offerings in the Rockland area.
In the 19th century, large limestone/granite quarries
provided massive amounts of stone and employment. Shipments aided in the
building of cities such as Boston and New York. Initial techniques of
limestone/granite transportation carried considerable risks. When
separated from rocks and initially processed, it was quite hot. When
loaded onto wooden ships, the heat caused a considerable number of
fires, some fatal.
Not all that long ago, because of the quarries and sardine canning
plants, Rockland was strictly an industrial town. While some other towns
catered to tourism, Rockland was noted for its distinct sardine odor. As
this industry and mining started to fade, the economic fortunes of the
city faded along with it. As an exercise in gallows humor, one citizen
of Rockland characterized the city at that time as a place for a “beer
and a beating.”
Today, this environment is—NO MORE! Tourism is the primary focus of
Rockland, just as tourism is now the largest industry in all of Maine.
While other industries remain to provide employment for many of the
state’s one million inhabitants, such as lobster fishing and
shipbuilding, tourism has surged to the top of the list.
A considerable portion of the state’s tourism efforts now revolves
around these small businesses. To the extent possible, they emphasize
purchasing from and dealing with other Maine businesses. Agriculture,
more and more, is tied to organic farming in both crop cultivation and
livestock.
Activities
and Sites
Rockland has something for everyone. You can enjoy adventure,
windjammers, and boat rides, as well as trolley tours and museums. We
are only going to focus on a few.
We toured the Farnsworth Art Museum and Wyeth Center. One prominent
featured artist is the renowned painter, Andrew Wyeth. Within several
weeks of our tour, on June 26, the artist and philanthropist, Alex Katz,
will be given the 2010 “Maine in America Award.” In total, the museum
features around 13,000 works of art.
We visited two spas in Rockland. The Rheal Day Spa has been
characterized as a “unisex green spa,” with some of its furniture
covered with material that is anti-bacterial and made of recycled
plastic bottles. Some attendees described it positively as providing a
zen-like experience. In addition to enjoying massages, we thoroughly
appreciated its willingness to provide use of showers when coming off
trips on the Stephen Taber.
The SkinKlinic specializes in treatments using all natural Hungarian
products known as “Eminence.” This spa is also unisex. The Skin Klinic
is a medi-spa and has two registered RNs as part of its licensed staff.
It offers the services of a regular spa and then includes many
treatments only available at a medi-spa.
Our IFWTWA group visited the Maine Lighthouse Museum. There are still
about 53 functioning lighthouses along the Maine coast (5,300 miles
stretched out). Today, all are operated automatically. Whether automatic
or, historically, manned by dedicated lighthouse keepers, they have
provided a vital part of ship safety.
For many years, the lighting function of these lighthouses was provided
by a French brand known as Frnselles. These lamps came in varying sizes,
but were very efficient in penetrating seacoast fogs. Forty watt bulbs
seemed like 150 watt, and when in operation they used 1,000 watt
bulbs—hence the light visibility averaged 10 miles.
In earlier days, lighthouse keepers and their families lived year around
in the houses. One prominent 16-year old, Amy Burgess, achieved heroic
status when, trapped during a storm without her father, she kept the
lighthouse operational and served as defacto family head.
When ships foundered, lighthouses often provided lifesaving rescue
efforts. One device for rescue was the Lile Gun. It would shoot ropes
out to the damaged vessel and enable a tie to the ship. Then, sailors on
board would be ferried across the ropes secured by the gun, to reach
shore. The Rockland Lighthouse Museum is an amazing stop.
A fascinating museum has just opened, the Sail, Power and Steam Museum.
Jim Sharpe is its owner and inspiration. His museum contains a wide
variety of historical small ships, early steam engines, and devices for
loading and unloading ships. One source of his machines and ship models
is from the Snow family, who operated a very large shipbuilding company
on his museum site. In a family basement, he found a treasure trove of
historical model vessels.
The
Owl’s Head Transportation Museum is truly one of Rockland’s notable
sites. It includes an array of model automobiles, from even before the
turn of the century through the 1930s. These include some of Ford’s
Model Ts to classic Packards and Duesenbergs.
Owl’s Head also features several restored models of classic planes, such
as the Wright Brothers model from Kitty Hawk and mail carriers from the
1920s. Besides the cars and planes themselves, viewers can take tours
around the outside premises in a Model T. On some days, airplane tours
in these restored models are available.
It doesn’t make sense to visit Maine without learning about its lobster
industry. Lobster fishing is still a prominent Rockland industry. For
decades, lobstermen recognized that the supply of ocean lobsters is
finite and they self police to fish responsibly. For example, lobsters
over and under prescribed amounts (under 3.5 inches or over 5.5 inches
from bottom of head to tail) are thrown back. Similarly, females with
eggs are not harvested. Modern lobster traps have small doors, enabling
smaller creatures to escape.
The lobster industry took a severe hit in 2009, due to the economic
downturn. Retail prices of lobsters plummeted to around $2 per pound,
even though costs of boat gasoline and bait kept expenses at around the
same $2. Now, economic recovery, albeit slow, seems to be starting.
As an industry, lobster fishing depends on terrain claimed by individual
fishermen. Considerable aggression is employed to protect each terrain.
Attempts of newcomers to enter the local industry are very difficult to
effect.
One working lobster pound known as Ship to Shore Lobsters provided our
group with a very educational tour of this fascinating industry.
Some of our group went out with Captain Jack’s Lobster Adventure on a
working lobster boat. Steve named the lobster tour boat and business
after his grandson. Only six can go at a time, but you pull traps, toss
or keep depending on size and eggs, and learn the difference between
male and female. Captain Steve has many lobster tales to liven up the
adventure.
Another
experience for us was to visit the new Farmer’s Fare, which provides a
unique combination of gardens, kitchen facilities, and farmers’ market.
Products of local organic farming are prominently featured. The Fare’s
motto is “Gathering People Together to Make Joy and Eat Ice Cream.”
We were fortunate to tour the James Beard awarded Primo Restaurant. This
represents the dream of its owner, Melissa Kelly She was trained by her
Italian grandfather. Primo mostly relies on its own herbs and greens, as
well as its own pigs and chickens. These animals are fed with the same
types of home grown organic products. When they use other farmers, they
know all details about their livestock.
Trolley tours, with narration, are available to go through Rockland’s
historic district. The National Registry of Historic Places lists over
145 structures as having historic significance. There is also a wine
trolley tour with the wineries we visited listed below.
Maine now has an established wine industry. These vintners are part of
the small business entrepreneurs mentioned above. Our group visited
three: Sweet Grass Winery and Distillery, Savage Oakes Winery, and
Cellardoor Winery.
Sweet Grass is also a working farm. Besides its wine section of 3.5
acres, the farm’s owners, Elmer and Holly Savage, grow pigs and
fascinating Belted Galloway cattle that look like Oreo cookies. Savage
Oakes is currently the only vineyard in the state to use 100% of its own
grapes in wines. Its owner, Keith Bodine, also makes apple wine on his
200 year old farm. Cellardoor Winery provides an elaborate tasting
facility and store that serves lunch. Owner Bettina Doulton acquired the
operation in 2007 and has hired experienced wine professionals to run
daily operations and dramatically improve the quality of the wine.
Windjammer
Cruise
A small group of us continued on a 3 day wine cruise on Maine
windjammer, Stephen Taber. This schooner was built in 1871, but has been
lovingly cared for and remains in pristine condition. It also boasts of
being the oldest documented vessel in continuous service in the U.S. It
has never missed a season. Its current owners are Captain Noah & Jane
Barnes.
It has no motors, but, depending on wind conditions, can be pushed by a
small motorboat. Indoor plumbing is fully functioning. Sleeping
facilities are accessible by ladders, as is the kitchen galley.
Depending on weather, meals are served on deck, but can be moved into
the galley.
Our first day on board was cold and dreary, although visibility was
good. That night, we were very grateful for our extra warm clothing.
However, the next day was glorious and sunny and really made up for the
previous 24 hours. A few adventurous souls braved diving into the ocean,
which remained at a frigid 50 degrees despite the warm sun. If desired,
you could help raise and lower the sails and anchor, quite a chore.
Our excellent meals were amazing and prepared in a 1920s wood stove.
Nothing was too complicated for Chef Amy. Jane Barnes oversaw two
exceptional wine tastings. Jane has the ability to explain and serve
that encourages the novice and delights the well-seasoned.
Rockland
Dining
A variety of Rockland restaurants, bakers, and winegrowers provided our
group with a dinner/reception at Rustica Cucina Italiana Restaurant.
Such treats as mussels, salads, tapas and desserts provided an example
of savory meals to come. We were also able to mix and meet with other
local businesses that made our trip possible.
One dinner was at the newly opened Pearl Restaurant. The food and water
view on three sides was a hit. Those who ordered lobster were delighted.
We enjoyed a progressive lunch, dining at all four of the Historic Inns
of Rockland—Berry Manor Inn, Captain Lindsey House Inn, Granite Inn, and
the LimeRock Inn. Each inn provided a savory and sweet pie like they do
for National Pie Day in January.
We enjoyed another lunch at Café Miranda, with its extensive eclectic
menu that goes far beyond well-known lobster fare. Its owner, Kerry
Altiero, offers Thai, Italian, and other fares. In a section of bar
seats, his cooking activities are readily visible and he often describes
them while in process.
One
night, our group split up for dinner, taking in several Rockland
restaurants. These included the above mentioned Rustica Italiana Cucina,
Café Miranda, Amalfi Restaurant, and In Good Company as well as Lily’s.
We all brought back glowing experiences.
A highlight of our IFWTWA tour was a lobster bake in the garden of the
Captain Lindsey House. Besides delicious lobster, corn on the cob, and
wine, the conclusion was a notable dessert of strawberry rhubarb pie. In
addition, the Fiore establishment provided a tasty array of olive oils
and balsamic vinegars for a tasting. We also met a husband and wife team
who devised a new marketing effort to expand lobster sales using the
internet. Their firm, “Crate to Plate,” lets you purchase a trap for a
month, 3 months, or a season and get the catch. You can check online to
see how many lobsters are in your crate and ready to ship live when you
want. With our primary Maine hosts, the Historic Inns of Rockland, we
had a delicious fun-filled evening.
On our trip back to the airport, our group from the schooner made one
last notable stop. This was at Cold River Vodka Distillery. Here, we
sampled vodka produced from Maine potatoes, rather than the grain used
in most well known vodka brands.
Historic
Inns of Rockland
Our IFWTWA tour could only have taken place with the efforts of the
Historic Inns of Rockland. All are B & Bs. They deserve lengthy
descriptions, but below are brief ones:
Berry Manor Inn—This
1898 Victorian style award winning 12 room inn is one of Maine’s premier
B&B’s. It’s been decorated with attention to detail in every aspect. The
beds are all custom made and delightfully comfortable. It has the charm
of the Victorian era with up-to-date luxuries. All guest rooms have
luxury baths, complimentary high-speed Internet access, air
conditioning, phones, flat-screen television and use of well-stocked
guest pantries complete with homemade pies. This four diamond B&B has
been recognized by Maine as an “Environmental Leader in Hospitality.”
Owners Cheryl Michaelsen and husband Mike LaPosta say, “We are committed
to pampering our guests while proving that one doesn’t need to give up
comfort, luxury, or service to stay in an environmentally friendly inn.”
81 Talbot Avenue, Rockland, Maine 04841. Tel: (800) 774-5692 or (207)
596-7696
Captain Lindsey House—Switch
to thinking old English Inn blended with a Maine sea captain’s home
built in 1832. As soon as you step inside, the hospitality is evident.
The antiques, down couches and well-stocked library draw you inside to
relax. The library also has a desk and computer port for guests. You can
also use complimentary WiFi in other areas of the inn. Fresh flowers are
in every room and down comforters are on each bed. Owned by Captains Ken
and Ellen Barnes, the inn conveys their personality, as they owned,
restored, and sailed the 1871 Stephen Taber for 25 years. Patricia
Payeur, Innkeeper, is equally charming. All rooms and suites have a
phone, computer modem port, television, air conditioning and private
bath. These modern conveniences do not detract from the antiques. You
can enjoy your breakfast in the oak paneled replica of an English pub,
the garden, or delivered to your room. Afternoon treasures include a
cool drink, sherry or port with some delicious snack. Once the weather
is cooler, guests prefer to gather by the fireplace for afternoon tea. 5
Lindsey Street, Rockland, Maine 04841. Tel: (800) 523-2145 or (207)
596-7950.
Granite Inn—This
B&B was built in 1840 of gray granite, quarried nearby. Federal colonial
in style, it overlooks Rockland’s busy harbor with the fresh sea air and
gulls flying. It is in the National Historic District of Rockland, green
certified, and pet-friendly. Joan and Ed Hantz completely redid the
inside of the structure. Joan’s design background shows throughout with
bright, clean cut and comfortable furnishings intermingled with select
antiques. You’ll enjoy a hearty gourmet breakfast, wireless Internet,
handicap accessible, State of Maine Environmental Leader certified, and
an inviting front porch that beckons you to sit and enjoy. 546 Main
Street, Rockland, Maine 04841. Tel: (800) 386-9036 or (207) 594-9036
Lime
Rock Inn—A
turreted Victorian mansion turned into a B&B, its Queen Anne
architecture makes you think about a bygone era. Your Innkeeper owners
Frank Isganitis and PJ Walter traded a suit and tie and busy urban life
to one of gracious service. Hearty breakfasts, private fireplaces,
whirlpool or European soaking tubs and king beds welcome you. The Inn is
WiFi enabled and has a guest computer as well as complimentary
refreshments in the guest pantry. Like the other Inns, the LimeRock Inn
is high in ratings and rated an Environmental Leader. 96 Limerock
Street, Rockland, Maine 04841. Tel: (800) 546-3762
Just as picking a favorite activity or spa was difficult, so is picking
my favorite inn. We have been fortunate to experience all of them and
each has its own charm. We would suggest looking at their rooms online
to determine which one meets your needs. Historic Inns of Rockland,
Maine,
www.HistoricInnsofRockland.com. You can also discover the various
tours and specials offered all year.
Summary
As Maine goes, Rockland and its tourism industry and facilities are well
represented by its four historic inns and the innovative businesses and
entrepreneurs visited in our IFWTWA tour.
Big Blend Radio
- Maralyn D. Hill was a featured guest on Vacation
Station radio on June 25, 2010. To listen to Maralyn's interview, please
click here.
The Tandem Travelers are a
traveling writing team made up of Maralyn D. Hill and Brenda C. Hill -
co-authors of ‘Cooking Secrets - The Why and How’ and ‘Our Love Affairs
with Food & Travel’, plus Maralyn's husband Norman E. Hill - author of
‘Winner and Final Chairman’. Learn more about their books on
www.BooksByHills.com
or follow their travels around the world on
www.whereandwhatintheworld.com
